1 Principles
总则
1.1 Aim of the standard
标准目的
The aim of this standard is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. 本标准旨在规定有机纺织品从其原料收获、对社会和环境负有责任的加工、再至标识的整个过程需确保有机状态,从而向最终消费者提供值得信赖的产品。
1.2 Scope andstructure
范围和结构
This standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70% certified organic natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics, garments, fashion textile accessories (carried or worn), textile toys, home textiles, mattresses and bedding products as well as textile personal care products.
本标准涵盖了所有有机天然认证纤维成分含量不低于70%的纺织品的加工、制造、包装、标识、贸易和分销活动。终产品可包括(但不限于)纤维产品、纱线、面料、服装、纺织类时尚(穿戴)饰品、纺织玩具、家用纺织品、床垫寝具及纺织类个人护理用品。
The standard focuses on compulsory criteria only. Some of the criteria are compliance requirements for the entire facility where GOTS products are processed (2.4.10. Environmental management, 2.4.11. Waste water treatment, 3. Minimum social criteria and
4.1. Auditing of processing, manufacturing and trading stages), whereas the others are criteria relevant for the specific products subject to certification (all other criteria of chapter 2 and chapter 4.2.of this standard).
本标准仅关注强制性准则。其中,一部分准则规定了加工全球有机纺织品标准(GOTS)产品的整个单位需满足(第2.4.10 节环境管理、第2.4.11 节污水处理、第3 节最低社会准则及第4.1 节加工、制造和贸易活动的审核),而其它准则仅要求特定的认证产品需满足(本标准第2 节和第4.2 节要求)。
As it is to date technically nearly impossible to produce any textiles in an industrial way without the use of chemical inputs, the ap-
proach is to define criteria for low impact and low residual natural and synthetic chemical inputs (such as dyestuffs, auxiliaries and finishes) accepted for textiles produced and labelled according to this standard.
鉴于当前纺织品的生产不可能不使用化学品的行业现状,对依据本标准生产和标识的纺织品所使用的投入物定义了标准——允许使用残留低、环境影响小且经过许可的天然投入物和合成化学品投入物(如:染料、助剂和整理剂)。
1.3 Certificate ofCompliance
合格证书
Processors, manufacturers, traders and retailers that have demonstrated their ability to comply with the relevant GOTS criteria in the corresponding certification procedure to an Approved Certifier receive a GOTS Certificate of Compliance issued in accordance with the 'Policy and Template for issuing Certificates of Compliance (Scope Certificates, SCs)'. Accordingly they are considered Certified Entities. Certificates of Compliance list the products/product categories that the Certified Entities can offer in compliance with the standard as well as the processing, manufacturing and trading activities that are qualified under the scope of certification. Subcontractors and their relevant processing and manufacturing steps become listed on the Scope Certificate of the Certified Entity assigning thecertification.
加工者、制造商、贸易商和零售商在被授权认证机构确认其有能力满足GOTS 相应认证程序的有关准则后,将获得一张被授权认证机构依据《合格证书(范围证书——SC)颁发政策和模板》颁发的GOTS 合格证书。获得合格证书的单位被称为被认证实体。合格证书上列出了被认证实体所能提供的符合标准的产品或产品类别以及认证范围内具有资格的加工、制造和贸易活动。分包单位及其相应的加工和制造步骤则列在被认证实体的范围证书的附页中。
1.4 Label grading andLabelling
标签等级和标识
The standard provides for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of 'organic' / 'organic -in conversion' material in the certified product. Labelling of products as 'in conversion' is only possible, if the standard, on which the certification of the fibre production is based, permits such labelling for the fibre in question.
本标准将标签细分为两个等级,其区别仅在于要求认证产品中含有的“有机”或“有机转换”原料的最小百分比不同。只有当纤维生 产所依据的认证标准(农业标准)允许该纤维标识为“转换”的前提下,才可将产品标识为“转换”。
Only textile goods (finished or intermediate) produced in compliance with this standard by a Certified Entity and certified by an Ap- proved Certifier(= GOTS Goods) may be sold, labelled or represented as:
被认证实体只有对依据本标准生产的且经过了被授权认证机构认证的纺织品(终产品或中间产品)(即GOTS 产品),才可引用以下
内容进行销售、标识或推介:
a) "organic" or "organic -inconversion"
a) “有机”或“有机转换”
or 或
b) "made with (x %) organic materials" or "made with (x %) organic -in conversionmaterials"
b) “由(x%)有机原料制成”或“由(x%)有机转换原料制成”
and the GOTS logo (or the immediate reference “Global Organic Textile Standard” or the short form “GOTS”).
及GOTS 标志(或直接引用“全球有机纺织品标准”或缩写形式“GOTS”)。
Labelling must be completed by a reference to the Approved Certifier who has certified the GOTS Goods (e.g. certifier's name and/or logo) and the licence number of the Certified Entity (as provided by the Approved Certifier).
标识须指明对GOTS 产品实施认证的被授权认证机构的信息[如:认证机构的名称及(或)标志]和被认证实体的许可号(由被授权认证机构提供)。
In all cases the GOTS labelling can only be applied to the product/packaging by a Certified Entity and must have been approved by the Certified Entity's Approved Certifier in advance of its application.
任何情况下只有被认证实体才可在其产品或包装上使用GOTS 标识,且GOTS 标识在使用前须经过被认证实体的被授权认证机构的审批。
Application of GOTS labelling must be in compliance with the ‘Licensing and Labelling Guide’.
GOTS 标识的使用须符合《许可和标识指南》。
1.5 Referencedocuments
参考文献
Beside this standard the International Working Group has released the following official reference documents that provide for bind- ing provisions and requirements for Approved Certifiers and users of the GOTS:
除本标准外,国际工作组还发布了以下官方的参考文献,对被授权认证机构和GOTS用户都提出了具备约束力的规定和要求: 杨老师(18575592846)
-Manual for the Implementation of the Global Organic TextileStandard:
provides interpretations and clarifications for specific criteria of GOTS. Its purpose is to prevent any inconsistent, inappropri- ate or incorrect interpretation of the standard. It further contains requirements and detailed specifications for the application of the GOTS and the implementation of the related quality assurance system forcertifiers.
《全球有机纺织品标准实施手册》:
为GOTS 特定准则提供了释义和说明。其目的在于消除各种对本标准不一致、不准确甚至错误的理解。该手册还包括认证机构应用GOTS 标准和实施相关质量保障体系的要求和详细说明。
-Licensing and LabellingGuide:
specifies the licensing conditions for companies participating in the GOTS certification system and defines the corresponding licence fees. It further sets the requirements for the use of the registered trademark 'Global Organic Textile Standard' (GOTS logo) in order to ensure correct and consistent application on products as well as in advertisements, catalogues or other pub- lications.
《许可和标识指南》:
详细说明了公司参加GOTS 认证体系的许可条件,规定了对应的许可费用。该《指南》还规定了《全球有机纺织品标准》注册商标(GOTS 标志)的使用要求,确保了GOTS 标志在产品及宣传材料、产品手册或其它出版物上能有正确一致的使用。
-Policy and Template for issuing Certificates of Compliance (Scope Certificates,SCs):
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing Certificates of Compliance
《合格证书(范围证书——SC)颁发政策和模板》:
对合格证书的颁发政策、设计、格式和文字提出了详细指令
-Policy and Template for issuing Transaction Certificates(TCs):
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing Transaction Certificates
《交易证(TC)颁发政策和模板》:
对交易证的颁发政策、设计、格式和文字提出了详细指令
-Policy and Template for issuing Letters ofApproval:
provides detailed instructions with regard to policies, layout, format and text for issuing Letters of Approval for colourants and textile auxiliaries which are approved as inputs for application in the processing of GOTS certified textile products
《投入物批文颁发政策和模板》:
对批准用于加工GOTS 认证的纺织品的投入物——染化料和助剂的批文的颁发政策、设计、格式和文字提出了详细指令
-Approval Procedure and Requirements for CertificationBodies:
specifies the approval and monitoring procedures and sets out the related requirements for Certification Bodies to implement the GOTS certification and quality assurance system
《认证机构审批程序和要求》:
详细说明了对认证机构进行审批和监管的程序,规定了认证机构实施GOTS 认证和质量保障体系的相关要求
新标准的主要变化如下: 1. 明确了中国有机标准(GB/T 19630)以及印度NPOP标准认证的有机纤维可以作为GOTS原料来源(注意: 轧花、沤麻、洗毛、煮洗茧仍旧需要GOTS认证
2. 调整GOTS产品中再生纤维素纤维的成分比例要求。 3. 辅料要求部分增加防滑层的说明。 4. 进一步明确仓储时杀虫剂/杀菌剂的使用要求。 5. 进一步明确接收原料TC、识别GOTS产品时的发票及单据要求。
6. 修订部分技术质量参数的要求,如:唾液色牢度的等级由“Fast” 调整为 “5”。 7. 更新部分残留物限量值的测试方法,参照REACH法规修订部分指标。
8. 标准手册中增加OEKO-Tex 100 认证对于辅料证据的适用情况。 9. 更新社会准则(Social criteria)部分的要求,增加商业道德行为(Ethical Business Behaviour)的内容;增加关于加班费支付的最小倍数。 10. 增加“婴幼儿纺织品”的定义。 11. 增加有害化学物质零排放(Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals,简称:ZDHC)的适用性。 12. 明确大货分装不属于重新包装活动。